All the things that are difficult now about Shanghai, that
seem strange, ridiculous or unpleasant we should treasure because one day we
will be leaving them behind. They are the things we will tell our friends when
we return and our grandchildren when we are old. They are the things that will
form the parameters of this experience. All the things that we miss from home
are the everyday things we have grown used to over 35 years and that we will go
back to and absorb into our lives once more without a thought. A policy: for
every 1 thing that jars or makes me begin that thought ‘I wish I were at home’
I’ll come up with 5 things that will make me miss China. So today its ‘ I don’t
know how to see a doctor if we need to’ vs the incredible friendliness of
pretty much every Chinese person we have met, supermarket aisles full of
noodles, having delicious vegetarian Chinese food delivered to our room, watching
t’ai chi in the park, the dislocation of jet lag that allows your mind to roam
around time and space it’s not usually active in.
Obviously having the girls with us magnifies the feelings of
dislocation and plain old shock. Because they are so little and I feel quite
heartbroken that I’ve taken them away from the friends and family they love and
the life they are used to, I find myself anticipating all sorts of culture
shock on their behalf. Cass has pretty much been a feral rat since we got here,
roaming around at all times of day and night and occasionally coming up with
heart spearing statements like ‘I want go home, I want go my little house’.
In her essay Street Haunting Virginia Woolf has this to say
about home and leaving it (in her case to roam the streets of London on a winter evening on
the pretext of finding a pencil):
‘For there we sit surrounded by objects which perpetually express the oddity of our own temperaments and enforce the memories of our own experience’
And:
‘The shell–like covering which our souls have excreted to house themselves, to make for themselves a shape distinct from others, is broken, and there is left of all these wrinkles and roughnesses a central oyster of perceptiveness, an enormous eye’.
These were the exact reasons we wanted to come here, our
shells have cracked and we’ve emerged pink and vulnerable and blinking our
enormous eye wondering what shape we will make for ourselves and our family here.
All the things that are really incidental or environmental,
that you wouldn’t think twice about if you were on holiday somewhere become
weights in the balance of whether or not this place can feel like home. Noise
from the traffic, not being able to see any trees, no tea-towels, crap heating
provided by air conditioning, the lack of a decent loaf of bread, somehow
assume the same significance as other far more important features of our new
home such as the unerring friendliness and grace of the Chinese people we have
met so far. I’m missing our little house and its homely housiness, its shabby
charm that was shabbiness we had created by living in it, the evidence of our
occupation and of its holding our family within it was there in every room, it
was the mark we left on the world. Now we don’t have a mark or a trail, we’re
floating, feels like we were magicked into this place. And in a way we were for
what else is air travel if not the magic power of being catapulted 40,000 feet
in the air at a speed of 500 mph for 12 hours. That’s not a trail that can be
traced by the human eye or memory, in the scheme of a life it may as well be
teleportation. We have been here two days! Do I think too much? Perhaps, let me
ponder that for a while...
Since I wrote this we’ve moved into our lovely apartment in
a really fantastic neighbourhood and are all feeling much more settled and Cass
is no longer asking for her little house. More on that next time…
Hey Lizzie, was a little worried about the non-committal sense in this post, until I realised it was written two months ago! Lovely to read though, and you do get across that sense (that I have never had) of being somewhere you want to be, but is difficult and totally alien in so many ways. Looking forward to reading much more!
ReplyDeleteThis is beautiful Lizzie, so evocative and poetic. Really made me reflect on that feeling of 'home' and of our creations of our identities. As ever I see you are still fiercely optimistic even in the face of your own overwhelming emotions and also as brave as I remember you. We can learn so much from making ourselves vulnerable, open to new perceptions. Still, I'm glad to hear that things are more settled now and that are living somewhere it sound like you love!
ReplyDeleteSending you much love, Sarah xxxx